On Saturday, May 19, fashion lovers flocked to SCADshow to listen to the words of the acclaimed American fashion designer Derek Lam. The 3 p.m. event started with Emily Irons, SCAD alumna and current assistant to Derek Lam, showering her boss with well-deserved praise. Next, President Paula Wallace graced the stage. First discussing innovation — shown best in what Wallace described as the “highly stylized departure” of SCAD Atlanta’s fashion showcase from the traditional runway presentations held at the Savannah location just yesterday. Wallace welcomed Lam to the stage as she presented him with the Étoile Award. Lam then sat down in one of the chairs placed center stage. With the director of Vogue Runway Nicole Phelps sitting to his right, she was there to mediate the conversation and interview him.
In 2003, Lam left Michael Kors to start his line. “I felt like I could do something different, like every stupid kid,” he said. However, Lam was no stupid kid — he was in his 30s, had 12 years of experience under his belt and was extremely knowledgeable about the industry and manufacturing. He had put in the work and knew he would regret not trying it. He was particular about shying away from the celebrity status that envelops many up-and-coming designers. This humble nature was evident throughout the event, a breath of fresh air and a rarity in the fashion industry.
Lam details that 2003 was a difficult time to start a fashion business in New York City. With the catastrophic effects of 9/11 still felt, the outlook of designers and creativity was bleak. However, there were organizations and companies, Vogue Magazine being one, looking for young designers to revive the American fashion scene. Lam “rode that wave of generosity and outreach,” also specifying the industry was much more intimate in 2003 than it is today.
The iconic American designer spoke about his inspiration behind founding the Derek Lam 10 Crosby collection. He felt his luxury line was stuffed away on some floor of a department store, hidden away from the typical American women. Luxury stores didn’t appreciate Lam’s simplicity in design and material either, and was frustrated with the lack of women wearing his designs. He looked out his window, saw a woman down on Crosby Street and thought, “That is the woman I want to design for.”
Throughout the conversation, Lam stressed the woman he designed for gets dressed to feel confident and to have a certain level of authority without needing to wear a suit — but sensual at the same time. Comfort and wearability are the two goals Lam strives for in his designs.
Lam recognizes that 2018 is yet another a difficult time for American designers. With “American streetwear” perfected on the catwalks of Europe, people are turning to us and asking, “what are you offering that’s new?” “The best American fashion has come from a time of deprivation. Designers like Claire McCardell had limitations because of the war. They had very little means to work with,” Lam said, further referencing that they had to be innovative with the little they had. The future of fashion? Lam thinks it’s sustainability and ecologically aware pieces. A form of “self-deprivation” and recognizing that we, as a culture, overuse.
When the talk opened for audience questions, a woman in the back asked the designer his most significant failures and successes were. Lam’s biggest mistake? “There’s so many,” he said as the crowd burst into laughter, before continuing — “When I did what I had to do instead of what I wanted to do, it would invariably fail. People could tell.”
The talk ended and students clamored toward the stage to talk to the designer. Many found value in the conversation. “Derek Lam’s feedback was very useful for emerging designers,” said fourth-year fashion student Laura London, whose designs graced the Savannah runway show just a day prior. First-year fashion student Viren Shah loves SCAD Talks. “Being able to come to these open my eyes. Hearing these designers shows me what I’ll be doing in the future,” he said.
President Wallace spoke about why Lam was selected for the Étoile Award, as she said, “He’s always been so down to earth and gives solid advice to students.” Her favorite piece of advice? “To start as a generalist and then pick your lane, and we prepare students well for that at SCAD.”
