Peeking Behind the Panties: How lingerie has evolved in favor of the female gaze
Graphic courtesy of Keren Ramos Velasquez
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“Peeking Behind the Panties: How lingerie has evolved in favor of the female gaze” by Keren Ramos Velasquez
With Victoria Secret’s recent announcement that their annual fashion show will be returning in 2023, everyone is wondering what will this new version of the iconic prime time showing look like. Since their fall from grace, they’ve tried ample times to make amends with their consumers, and seemingly continue to fail. Is this their attempt to gain our trust (and wallets) back after brands like Skims and Savage X Fenty have taken over? A better question is how were these brands able take over so fast after VS’s downfall? It’s time we take a look at their collapse and how the lingerie market has changed since.
Commercial lingerie had its peak in the 2000s with Victoria’s Secret, but what once gave the brand so much success ultimately became its downfall as years went by. The issue is that many brands like Victoria’s Secret have always targeted their advertising at the male gaze, prioritizing men’s desires over the needs of those who actually wear their garments. With the changes and adjustments society has made in recent years to prioritize the gender wearing the clothing, this has led to a new space where brands like Savage X Fenty and Skims have gained unique recognition in the realm of underwear and lingerie.
What sets them apart exactly? Simple. Positivity and inclusivity, which heavily contrast the overly-sexualized image that has been perpetuated in the past by a male-dominated culture within fashion. Beyond that, both brands focus on extreme detail to comfort. And don’t get it wrong, both Savage and Skims are sexy, but the difference lies in women having the power to define and design what sexy means.
Through the brand’s social media, we see some of its most sensual designs, but also the innovative silhouettes that both brands offer. From bespoke lingerie, comfortable bralettes and super stylized loungewear, they continue to redefine sensuality while covering the wants and needs of their consumers. This is probably why both brands have managed to gain a $3 billion valuation. The inclusivity of the brands allows everybody to truly feel sexy on their terms, and it’s clear that’s why consumers are willing to invest.
Both Skims and Savage make a point to say that when we discuss sex positivity, we also need to talk about body positivity. They go hand in hand, which Victoria’s Secret failed to realize. These brands have set the standard in considering different shades, shapes and sizes when designing their collections. Savage even goes as far as to design several versions of each garment for smaller and larger sizes, so the aesthetic and comfort of the product are consistent across the range of body types. And not only that, but they’ve geared their branding and advertising to an incredibly diverse audience, featuring models of every color that span the full spectrum of size inclusivity. Even models with disabilities are included on their runways and campaigns, continuing to prove that feeling seductive is not just for the able-bodied.
One huge factor to consider that heavily weighs into the success of these underwear, shapewear and lingerie brands is the powerful female figures behind them. Rihanna and Kim Kardashian are both women with a unique outlook on fashion and a strong voice that guides the aesthetic of each brand. They understand what women want to wear, which in turn makes it so much easier for the consumer to resonate with them, as a brand and as individuals. We can only hope that in the future we get to see more brands echoing the needs of audiences often forgotten by the fashion industry.
As the lingerie world is being redefined continuously, we see the end times of the male gaze dominated outlook that has plagued these segments of fashion for decades. Finally, we enter a new era where women are designing for women. An era where underwear and lingerie are reinvented and enhanced by the female gaze. If there’s one thing these brands have made clear, it’s that everyone deserves to feel sexy on their own terms.
