By Kendric Chua, contributor
In the heart of Georgia, Atlanta represents a concentration of diversity and cultures, defining it as something that is no longer strictly Southern. It is an internationally influenced city with a contemporary personality and a Southern presence in its roots. The Colonnade, amidst this setting, is a testament to the classic Southern American diner and a piece of history frozen in time. There is no doubt that since the establishment served its first plate of fried chicken in 1927, it has never failed to provide an atmosphere of familiarity and a strong sense of home regardless of whether or not you’re Southern. Atmosphere is key to a good dining experience — history and charm make it even better.
At first glance, there isn’t anything particularly special about the way the Colonnade’s interior is designed. One can argue that there are other diners/eateries, like “The Silver Skillet” or “Eats,” that do a better job of embellishing the place to further reinforce an old fashioned and period-piece feel to it. But the fact that this place has been around for more than a few decades tells us that they probably don’t need all that garnish. There is no need to be elaborate. The Colonnade is modest and confident, without that cocky flare of many midtown establishments.
The veteran waitstaff is all you need to help bring you back to basics and break down what could seem like the decision of the century into a no-brainer. The menu can be described in three words: traditional Southern American. According to Southerners, and I’m saying this on behalf of my Southern colleagues (I’m a Jersey boy), this is as Southern as it gets. Classical yet scrappy, The Colonnade lives up to it’s motto, “A Southern Dining Tradition Since 1927,” like a mission.
Comfortable and basic, the food doesn’t rely on anything sophisticated or particularly crafty; it relies on a consistent flavor, portion size and traditional quality.You’re not getting a masterpiece or intricate display, you’re getting a warm hug and a polite tip of the hat (metaphorically speaking of course, but I wouldn’t put it past the staff or customers). The Colonnade’s menu is the definition of comfort food. From classically crisped fried chicken to buttery shrimp and grits, satisfaction is the one and only goal of its flavors.
Consistency is the governing attribute of The Colonnade. You know exactly what you’re getting each time you come back for another round of fried okra, fried chicken livers, or fried anything. You get a good, honest dish out of anything on the menu, as well as friendly and amusingly cheeky service — the kind of service that makes the whole experience better.
The customers are a mix of regulars, newcomers and occasionally tourists — the ones that know where to look. Notorious for being exceptionally accommodating, the community is made up of all types of people. From broke college kids to family reunions, everyone can feel comfortable, with emphasis on, as several loyal customers have put it, “the gays and grays.”
The Colonnade is the place to go for a nice relaxing meal. Just kick back, enjoy the company, the food and the impeccable pricing. After having your meal, you’ll know that this was that pat on the back you’ve been waiting to give yourself all week.
