Highlights from the Spring/Summer 2022 season of Paris Fashion Week.
Fashion is back to its normal chaos in its hometown of Paris! Since it is one of the first seasons where we are able to inch back towards normalcy, the designers totally switched up what it means to have a fashion show. They set a heavy focus on digitization and democratization of fashion as more of the public was let through the watchful gates of fashion week.
Balmain’s Fashion Show/Concert
This was creative director Olivier Rousting’s 10 year anniversary with the brand, and the brand celebrated him in the way that he deserves. Rousting brought Balmain back into the conversation and made it a brand that defined Kim Kardashian’s aesthetic in the 2010s. The iconic double-breasted blazer and white t-shirt are from the genius of Rousting. The event was held at an arena where fashion took place as well as a concert with artists such as Doja Cat and Franz Ferdinand. Icons like Carla Bruni and Naomi Campbell graced the runway, and the who’s who of the industry were also invited to attend. For the very first time, fans were allowed to attend the concert and fashion show, which is something you rarely see occurring at fashion week. Regarding why he wanted fans at his Balmain Fesitval, Rousting said, “During my ten years at the house, my team and I have seamlessly woven music and fashion together, season after season,” (Olivier Rousting, Balmain).
The Simpsons Crash the Balenciaga Show
Balenciaga changed what it meant to be a fashion show. A brand known for its unorthodox approach to fashion, Balenciaga brought that same approach to its S/S ’22 fashion show. Instead of a traditional fashion show, the house screened an episode of the classic TV show “The Simpsons.” This was the most unexpected collaboration, and its development took over a year. The episode starts with Homer Simpson asking Balenciaga to send the cheapest item from the brand for Marge’s birthday. When the dress arrives and Homer sees that the dress actually costs $20,000, Marge wears for it 30 minutes and returns it. She sends back the dress writing that those 30 minutes were the most special in her life. Reading this, Balenciaga is moved and hosts a fashion show with all the residents of Springfield. The episode now has over 5 million views on YouTube and has garnered an immense amount of positive press. The episode featured some of the most iconic pieces from the brand, but to showcase their new pieces, they had the attendees of the fashion show wear the pieces to the show, and the images taken by the press are what they used to showcase the outfits. Vogue Runway reports, “The regular fashion show audience was seated inside the Théâtre du Châtelet at 8 p.m., watching a big-screen live stream of the red carpet arrivals going on in a tent outside. Soon, it was clear that everyone was in on the joke: The familiar Balenciaga tribe of Demna’s house models, lining up to pose in character as celebrities; actual celebrities lining up to pose as models; celebrity models posing as celebrity models. Cardi B and Offset! Lewis Hamilton! Dev Hynes! Naomi! Amber! Ella Emhoff! Mark Tuan! Elliot Page! Isabelle Huppert! Live TV camera feeds zoomed in on faces, raked outfits, shoes, spiky boots, jewelry, and bags. Paparazzi bayed orders. Handlers moved people on in a perfectly performed real-not-real control of lens-hoggers.”
Color and Optimism by the House of Dior
Dior’s new collections were filled with color, hope and exuberant optimism. Inspired by board games and in collaboration with artist Anna Paparatti, Dior filled the runway with a fresh take on spring and summer. The collection was heavily inspired by the ’60s and wanted to highlight the primary color palette. The whole event space had images of different board games and showcased the color and patterns of Paparatti’s work. Maria Grazia, the current creative director of Dior, also got influenced by past creative director, Marc Bohan. She was specifically moved by the “‘Slim Look’ line of 1961 and reinterpreting it through the dual prisms of youthquake fashion and the world today,” (Dior).
A Nostalgic Chanel Collection
Virginie Viard’s newest collection with Chanel was a great departure from the traditional Chanel fashion shows. She brought back the traditional raised runway and surrounded it with a pit of photographers. “I used to love the sound of flashbulbs going off at the shows in the ’80s,” said Viard, (AnOther). The collection had pieces inspired by some of the first collections by Karl Largerfeld with nods to the late ’80s and early ’90s. I personally loved all the swimwear and the traditional Chanel gold buttons. The fashion show had great energy and vibe with all the models interacting with each other and the photographers.
The Paris segment of the Spring/Summer season of 2022 left me inspired and optimistic for next year. With the world finally going back to a sense of normalcy and people returning to their daily routines, these fashion shows have paved the way for a more optimistic and colorful summer.